June 21^st, 2002

Here we are again comfortably bedded down for the evening after a day of sun wind and adventure. The evening sun is brilliant orange, setting across the lake, spilling it's jus across the rippling water. The water is lapping on the soft sandy beach, and the gentle breeze is tickling the poplar leaves. A few moments ago there were droplets of rain from a clear sky. If this is an omen or a warning of things to come, we are unprepared. The tent fly is off so that we can catch the breeze and stay cool. The temperature was absolutely blistering. I know what a lobster feels like after a short scald. I had to cove up early I the morning. May face is burning.
Today's experience is difficult to recount in my exhausted state. I need to have a map for reference and it is safely packed away for the night.

We departed our five star camp site across from Elak Dease after a quick breakfast. We spent about a half an hour walking around the deserted community admiring the setting and thinking about what it must have been like to live here while the fur trade was thriving.

Some of the log buildings appear to be quite old, and were built with precision. The logs were all hand squared, and the dovetail joints are tight. The hip roofs likely date the buildings back to the early 1900's.

One of the drying houses was of particular interest, with careful attention to filling all cracks with the right sized material. The roof design included a venting system that appeared rather new.

The church was locked and the steps were rotted and broken. It is obvious the church has not been used for many years. The tin roof and sturdy construction has stood the test of time so far. With a new set of steps, and a new exterior coat of paint, the building would be ready to serve its original purpose.

It is unfortunate that there no longer appear to be ways to sustain isolated communities like this. Schooling and the demise of trapping appear to have taken their toll. Perhaps some day someone will find a way to make communities like this work again. This place reminds me a little of Camsell Portage on the northern shore of Lake Athabasca.

Prior to leaving the community we agreed that we would take the shortcut route into Dreger Lake if it seemed at all appealing. After paddling into the wind for at least and hour we were rather happy to find the shortcut.

The shortcut was a very pleasant paddle close to the banks, twisting and winding through a low delta area. There were ducks at every turn and many signs of beaver and muskrat. When we arrived at the bottom of the delta area it was time for lunch and we quickly found a hunters spot with reasonable shade and shelter from the wind.

The wind was with us all the way up Dreger Lake and we surfed to the point turning back up into the wind. At the bottom of the bay and the entrance to Sandy Lake, we found some fishermen just above the minor rapids. We immediately began to jig for walleye, and soon had more than enough for a royal feast. After some brief discussion we agreed to paddle for another 2 hours to the end of Sandy Lake. The wind was with us up the channel, pushing us along at a rate of at least 15k/hr.

As we came out of the channel onto the main lake, we found that we had to angle down the lake in some deep troughs. As the rollers were inches away from the gunnels the whole way, we tempted fate with no mishaps. It was a struggle to keep the canoe pointed in the direction we wanted to go. It is exhilarating to paddle big water. I'll never forget paddling my red canoe out into the rollers on Beaverlodge Lake solo, just for fun.

This particular crossing took its toll on a foot brace that I will try to repair in the morning. Paddling with a foot brace offers much greater control of the boat and allows the paddler to use the lower body to brace against the wave action.

We camped on a very nice sand beach about a half a kilometre from the portage into Pinehouse Lake. Camping near sand is really a fussy business. Although we all enjoyed swimming and the panoramic view, sand tends to get into everything. We had to be cautious about setting things down, especially around the kitchen area. Our preferred camping spots will continue to be gradual sloping rocky outcrops with flat tenting areas on top.

Tomorrow morning we will work our way through Snake Rapids in the morning and up Pinehouse Lake. The adventure continues to unfold with something new and interesting around every bend in the river and beyond every island and bay on each new lake.
It is extremely warm and there is a songbird directly above the tent that is singing an incessant lullaby. The sandman is coming.

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